Kefalonia
The island of Kefalonia is...
... the largest in the Ionian Sea, with a population of 40,000 and over 250 kilometres of coastline. Majorca is very similar in size, but has a population over six times Kefalonia’s.
... quite possibly the site of the ancient kingdom of Ithaka. Recent discoveries on the Paliki peninsula have led archaeologists to conclude that Kefalonia might once have been Odysseus' kingdom.
... full of Mediterranean colour: turquoise seas, white beaches, dark pine forests, and white-capped mountains. At 5,000 feet Mount Aenos is the highest mountain in the Ionian Islands, covered by rare black pines. In the National Park that surrounds it you can still catch a glimpse of wild horses, and lower down in the foothills are the vineyards that produce Kefalonia’s celebrated Robolla wine.
... famous for being the setting for Louis de Bernières novel Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.
... unspoilt and determined to remain that way: there are no buildings taller than three 3 storeys, no hotels crowded right on the beach, and no ribbon developments of night-clubs and fastfood outlets. And while Majorca has over 4,000 villas, Kefalonia only has 250.
... almost entirely free of crime – most locals never even bother to lock their cars
... proud of its cosmopolitan culture and long tradition of hospitality
... full of evidence of its rich history, having been ruled at one time or another by Romans, Franks, Normans, Turks, Venetians, Spanish, French and English. No wonder de Bernières calls it “an island so immense in antiquity that the very rocks themselves exhale nostalgia”.
You must visit...
... busy Argostoli, for its pretty Venetian-style main square, its teeming fish and fruit markets, and its buzzing waterfront. Kefalonia’s capital has palm-lined promenades and exceptional shopping with boutiques and cafes in pedestrianised streets and squares. And the nightlife is both varied and suitably stylish.
... colourful Fiskardo, for its beautiful fishing harbour, its bright village houses, and its excellent waterside eating. Fiskardo is 54 kilometres northeast of Argostoli and the only town on the island to have survived the ’53 earthquake unscathed. In high summer the marina is crowded with boats and the sailing set hit town, but for the rest of the year it’s a quiet and characterful little place with Venetian houses clustered round the harbourside.
... Melissani lake, for its ultramarine water and spectacular cave vaults. This is one of the most important archaeological sites on the island. The cave is 40 metres wide and 36 metres high, and the water is at least 20 metres deep. In the summer little boats take visitors to see the spectacular stalactites above and the changing blues of the water below.
... dramatic Assos, perched on a peninsula, for its delightful village and Venetian fort. The amazing setting makes it a stunning and unforgettable place to dine.
... Myrtos beach, for its sheer cliffs, bright white sand and crystal clear turquoise water. Myrtos is one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece and quite possibly the world, where a stunning white shore meets a sea that’s every kind of blue. The view from the road above is simply astounding.
... popular Lassi, for its golden beaches, watersports, and great family facilities
... the monastery of Saint Gerassimo, the island’s patron saint, for its ornate decoration and peaceful valley setting under Mount Aenos.
...historic Peratata, for its 13th century castle ruins and amazing views. The castle of Agios Georgios was occupied in turn by Byzantines, Franks, Turks and Venetians before a 1636 earthquake reduced it to the ruin you can see today. The three ramparts face Argostoli, the East, and the village of Peratata, and you can visit the observatories and underground caverns and see the throne of the Venetian Lord, as well as the church where the nobles of Kefalonia were buried.
You must try...
... local specialities like aliatha (mashed potatoes with garlic), Kefalonian meat pie, bourbourelia (bean soup), the local hare, goat and rabbit stews, strapatsado (eggs with tomatoes), and riganada (bread with oregano).
... irresistible sweets like nougat, confetto (baked quince), galaktoboureko (custard pastries), mandoles (toasted almonds), and amygthalopita (almond cake)
... fresh fish and seafood at The Blue Sea Taverna, Katelios. The restaurant serves the best seafood dishes on the island, using only the freshest fish, and its lobster spaghetti is perfect for that special occasion.
... modern Greek haute cuisine, which re-interprets traditional recipes and themes in a contemporary style, as you can find in Katavothres, Argostoli
... the excellent local wine, especially the dry white Robola, the sweet red Mavrodafni and sweet white Muscat
